A little bumpy ...

Weaving

My Greasy Face

Well tonight at dinner, I managed to once again humiliate myself. After eating a very lovely dinner of shrimp with coconut milk soup, I decided I wanted to wash my hands. I asked the girl where the washroom was and she pointed to the right, at which point I made a sharp turn in the exact direction she was pointing. Immediately I heard a huge bang and felt pain all over my face. Unfortunately, and completely unannounced to me, there was a pane of sparkling clean glass immediately to the right of me, with the door slightly to the left. The immediate shock of the pain turned to extreme embarrassment when I remembered there were two foreign guys sitting in the restaurant watching the whole thing. And, I think even more humiliating than walking into the glass, was the face sized grease stain I left on the window - thanks to my persistently greasy face. All I could say was, "oh my god." They tried to be gracious about it but I think they really just wanted to laugh their asses off, basically as I am doing right now thinking about it. I hope they clean that window tomorrow so I never have to see that greasy face stain looking back at me again.
As you can see, I am in a new town with new adventures. I left Mae Hong Son on the 18th, with one night in Chiang Mai and am now in Mae Sot for the week. I had a very nice week of goodbyes in MHS. As with all goodbyes, much of the focus is on food. The students cooked all morning to make a lovely lunch for me (the food is on the white plates on the table) and they presented me with very thoughtful gifts. One of my students even did a thank you speech in English - I was so proud! I had to apologize for being the worst English teacher - I think I have permanently messed up their understanding of adverbs. But it was so much fun with them and I really could see their confidence grow over the last couple of months. When I first arrived they were so shy to say anything (English or Burmese) but by the end, they were trying to have English (and sometimes Burmese)conversations with me outside of class - big progress! I think another huge milestone is helping them to understand and love the fun side of education, in complete contrast to what they have been used to in Burma (silence and beatings). What I love about this program I worked in is the commitment to building the esteem and confidence of the young women. When, I see them, as I have been fortunate enough to do, out talking to the elder members of their community about women's rights, I think the success of the program shines through.
My co-workers also had a lovely dinner for me - see photo of the fish (I didn't get a photo of the frog) - followed by a an extremely robust round of karaoke. Everyone is so thoughtful and kind and have been so generous even though many do not have much to give. It is pretty humbling.
I also said goodbye to the little old guy at my local store. Although we can't really verbally communicate because of language barriers, we could tell each other that we liked one another and were sad to say goodbye. I love when communication doesn't need words.
Other photos, I wanted to try those pink eggs you see everywhere, which we determined with a 10 minute look through the Burmese-English dictionary, are soaked in limestone. I am still not sure. Inside they are black and transparent (see the photo of the salad - those black things are those pink eggs). The taste and texture are interesting. And I finished off my last day in the camp by chugging a huge mug of Karenni homemade wine. Good times! I am also loading a video of the weaving workshop and a tiny glimpse of the camp road. One hour there and back every time. I have a longer funny video of the trip but my co-workers would kill me if I posted it. So, I will share when I am home.
Now that I have arrived in Mae Sot, I realize and am grateful for the utopian life I was living in Mae Hong Son. Mae Sot is a border town. I saw my first Thai rat here after 15 minutes of being in the town. Enough said.
I am starting my research tomorrow. I am excited to see the other camps and feeling excited and a bit nervous about the interviews. I hope it all goes well.
I also want to say a huge thank you to my dear friends and their family for using their annual Christmas donation to make a significant contribution to young women displaced on the Thai-Burma border. Next year the women studying to further their education and empower their communities, will have hole free tables, white boards that actually erase and other school supplies to support their growth and development. Thank you so much!

Loi Krathang

Almost Finished

It has been a busy couple of weeks around here especially since I have decided to come home at the end of November rather than mid-December. I am trying to wrap up all my projects and also prepare to collect data for my thesis. I have also been able to visit a few other organizations within the camp that I was really interested in learning more about. Especially interesting were my visits to the two women's shelters. One was in a very nice and wooded section of the camp, up a hill and very secluded. It was very peaceful and comforting. The other was right in the middle of a busier section and it seemed to be a lot less protected. It is just so interesting because in some ways these safe houses are so similar to safe houses for women at home. Just with chickens running around. The staff and I talked about the work of the counselors and the programs offered to the women - not so dissimilar to our own programs. But on the other hand it would be incredibly difficult and at times scary to work in this position. The houses and fences are made of bamboo - although strong, they really aren't that good at keeping people out. The staff mentioned that angry husbands have on occasion jumped the fence and jumped on the roof of the house. Although security is provided, it is quite minimal and in an emergency, security comes on foot. Additionally, the women who work in the safe house live in the same community as those families involved with safe house. Staff mentioned that it is not uncommon to have husbands come to their homes to yell at them and threaten them. But the staff also told me that the passion for their work comes from knowing that they are educating the women in the community about their rights and are also providing a safe place for those women who need support. The commitment to the work, requires amazing strength and is pretty incredible.
In my wanderings, I also stumbled upon a weaving workshop! Much of the weaving in this camp is done on large looms like the one in the picture. Some women spin the cotton into thread and the other women operate the looms weaving the cloth. Although it is a large "machine" it is still manually operated by foot pedals. It was really amazing to listen to the looms in operation. Actually really soothing. I could have spent all day in there.
Finally, this past week was the Buddhist festival of Loi Krathang. My co-workers and I sent lanterns into the sky and launched flower boats onto the lake. In putting the flower offerings into the water, it is hoped that the water goddess will forgive you for using her [water]. I hope she does.
I also had a couple new food adventures. My co-worker taught me to make La Pet Thoe - Burmese Green Tea Salad. I bought a whole a lot of packs of pickled tea, so I will make it for you when I get home. Also I finally got to try Mu Ga Ta (?). Very similar to Korean BBQ but you put a big slab of pork fat on the top of the grill to keep it lubed up and then grill any kind of meat you can think of. My choices, beef and shrimp. Popular choices of my co-workers, liver, intestines, and pork fat with a little meat clinging to it. It was very delicious!
A couple of updates: our staff member who was in the accident with the landmine, is still in hospital but is expected to recover with time. She is currently in a body cast which she will likely have for about 3 months. However, with rehabilitation, it is hoped that she will be able to walk and fully recover phyiscally. Thank you for the donations. It really does help, without money, people honestly do not receive treatment here.
My co-worker's in-laws with the orange farm - unfortunately the fighting continues and the entire village has had to flee to the city. It is harvesting time but no one can return to their farms to get their oranges. As well, they have been told that all of their animals (6 cows and 9 pigs) have been stolen or killed by the SPDC (Burmese Army). It is a huge loss for them. Luckily they have family and friends to stay with. For those without any safe place to go, and who have fled to the Chinese border, many are surviving on rice and salt.
A good website to learn more about current events in Burma is www.irrawaddy.org

I am finishing up some peer support training this week and teaching my last English class. Leaving is always bitter sweet. I am moving to Mae Sot on Friday and will be there for a week. I'll try to have a couple more posts before I leave for home.
xo
M

Cute Pumpkins and Sweet Students

I decided to introduce Halloween to my students as I was teaching on October 31st. I wasn't sure if I should be imposing western holidays onto them but I then I decided who doesn't love carving a pumpkin. I was lucky enough to find some small little orange pumpkins at the market. Unfortunately I could only carry three to the camp so the 26 students had to share 3 tiny pumpkins. I also taught a bit about other Halloween traditions - ie. people dressing up in costumes. It was really interesting to analyze my own culture and the bizarre traditions that we have when thinking about what it looks like to an outsider. I was actually embarrassed to show them a photo of a grown man dressed up in an elephant costume - but you can't hide who you are and where you come from?!

I think the students had fun carving the pumpkins. The older ones were more interested in the actual pumpkin than the carving as they had never seen a pumpkin that looks like that. They asked me a lot of questions about its edibility - most of which I have no idea! I didn't have any Halloween music to listen to in the background so I went with the next best thing - B.B. King's Christmas album - haha! Anyway, I have some photos of all the students with the pumpkins but I'll share those when I get home.

Lastly, I have wanted to take photos of the classroom tables since I first arrived. These are the state of the tables that the students use. Basically they have to position their notebooks around the holes. If anyone is interested in a Christmas gift of tables to Thailand, I think they would be greatly appreciated.

I find the work in the camp, even if I am just teaching English, to be so motivating. There are so many amazing people with incredible strengths and skills. I also feel that I am using (and strengthening) my social work skills in all kinds of informal settings. It is great learning. The office is another story ...?!

In a Strange Land - documentary

I think this video is really interesting. The story and the people are located exactly at the border of the camp I am working in. The check point (with the red and white blockade and the sign indicating the temporary shelter area - temporary is now 20+ years) is the border of the camp and where we sign in to enter. The people getting into the truck with lots of bags are in the camp and are leaving for resettlement. Directly to the left of the check point is the long neck village (you can see a painted sign of a Kayan [long neck] woman) where this documentary takes place. The refugees living in the village, although with more freedom than those in the camp, have been exploited by the Thai tourist industry because of their brass rings. They are living outside the camp boundaries, but are expected to continue the tradition of wearing rings as thousands of tourists visit their village each year. The documentary shows the reluctance to allow these individuals to resettle like the other refugees living in the camps because of the financial loss to the tourism industry and highlights the difficult decision people must make when they consider resettlement. The video also gives a tiny glimpse into the continued persecution of the ethnic minorities in Burma and the work of the Free Burma Rangers who provide medical aid to displaced people living inside the Burma border. If the FBR are caught while inside Burma, they will be killed by the Burmese Army. So much story in just 8 minutes.

The Camp II

The Camp

Just some more pics of the camp. The long building with many doors is one of the elementary schools. I think there are about 7 elementary, 3 middle and 1 high schools in the camp. There are also pictures of one of the medical clinics (hospitals) and one of the medical labs. The area with the cement barrels is the communal shower area. People always bath wrapped in a sarong. The others are of houses and the big open area is a soccer field. I also stumbled upon this little one woman weaving shop!

Ban Hua Koong

We walked from Hua Hee to Hua Koong to spend the night. The town has about 10 houses with about 3 inhabited. Most have owners that work in the town but keep their house in the village. This is the family we stayed with - sweet couple with their young daughter and grandchildren. The husband has an amazing story about being attacked by a huge wild pig in the jungle! He said the pig was higher than his hips - and the size of the teeth mark scars on his arms seem to confirm that! We slept on the floor in the pic - thankfully under the mosquito net, but with no real comforts of a mat or pillow. Remarkably I slept pretty well but when I woke up in the morning, the first thing I said out loud was, "Oh God," which made Gloria laugh pretty hard. Also in typical fashion, I managed to get bit by some crazy ants and my arm swelled up in two places giving me the Popeye look. At least it wasn't my face.

Ban Hua Hee

The first village we stayed in Ban Hua Hee. The town has about 25 houses. This was the family we stayed with and these are pictures of their home. A typical Karen house (this shows the kitchen portion), toilet and shower, and inside the kitchen. The women cook on the floor on a soil/ash base. The family also sleeps in the kitchen during the winter months.

Doi Pui

The top of Mae Hong Son (1700+ meters) ... and the only place with cell coverage if you live in the village.

Trekking Thai Style

Hey Everyone,

I took a little 3 day trekking trip this weekend with our new volunteer Gloria. We climbed the highest peak in Mae Hong Son province, Doi Pui; learned how to cook (and basically survive) with only bamboo; and stayedd in two very small Karen villages, Ban Hua Hee and Ban Hua Koong, with two very sweet families. I also got to ask questions about traditional weaving which I was pretty excited about. It was a lot of fun!

These are pics from on the trail - boiling water in bamboo; lunch complete with bamboo bowls and cups (made right there in the jungle) and rice in banana leaves; the two little guys were from the village and joined us on our hike up Doi Pui and Gloria making her way through the jungle.