Ok one last one ... Manila!!

I'm staying in the red light district in Manila. Of course. The sign posted below my hostel is a tempting offer ... I do have a good personality ..., but alas I need to get home. Ordering food tonight was not necessarily easy ... I don't know a lot about the the Philipphines, but what I DO know is they eat pork ... All of it ... So I knew I better ask what I'm about to eat before I choose. So ... I say, this pork dish, what part of the pig is this? Ah, it's pork. Yes, but what part? Ah, it's part of the face. Ok, thank you, I'll choose a different part. I met some really lovely Filipinos who invited me to join them - and had varying opinions on my aloneness. My favourite was one of the ladies who said, it's been so nice to meet such a brave lady.  Aww! Thanks! I also met a nice German at the night market and we had a few San Miguel and enjoyed listening to some local karaoke. One night in Manila but memorable in a chilling way. In the morning I really got a sense of the red light district. I went for breakfast and I was the only woman other than the young girls being called off the street by ugly fat old men or those leaving the adjoining hotel leaving ugly fat old men. Initially I was so disgusted I took some pictures and thought I'm going to share your disgusting faces so people can see you. But then I just decided to stare, and exert my own power. And I could feel their discomfort with me. One 60 year old white loser in particular was very uncomfortable, squirming in his chair, as I stared him down with two 17 year olds at his table. I made a point of walking around him, buying a few things sold  there next to him, all the while throwing him looks of disgust. He didn't like that. When my breakfast came out with an American flag in it, I felt so angry by that symbol of capitalism and inequality, that I grabbed it and ripped it up in my own silent protest. And then I laughed at how crazy I seemed. That experience was an eye opener to the Asian sex trade, and reminded me of  things I saw and experienced in Cambodia 11 years ago, reminding me yet again that we are a long way from equality for women. I hope there is power in this work for the women, and if possible the girls. I hope they use those assholes, make their money, and are able to take care of themselves in the future. 

That's a wrap!

"Come from where?" "Canada." "Oh Canada, that's in Europe?" "No, North America." "Oh, close to Denmark?" "Ah, nope, close to the United States." "Oh, and Denmark?" "Ah, no, just on top of the U.S., Canada then United States." "Oh, and where is Denmark." "Across the ocean, in Europe." "Oh, but Canada is not in Europe?" "No, it's in North America ... " And around and around we go. I love these random conversations with strangers. I also love contemplating these random things, like why Donald Duck is a guardian spirit of this Chinese Temple ... Can we ever really know the answer to that? I had a really relaxing time on Pulau Pangkor with great hosts at the Ombak Inn. It's was a losing battle with the monkeys, but it kept me on my toes if nothing else. I'm glad I took a few days on the beach before going home. Back to Bangkok for my flight meant another overnight in Georgetown and a 24 hour cross the border train ride. In Georgetown I met Anna from Spain. Thirty-eight years old and out on her own. She found me sitting alone in the Hong Kong Bar, and asked if she could join me. It was great to talk to another woman about politics, love and travelling alone. She said that she often feels other travellers treat her like there is something wrong with her and that she is alone because she HAS to be alone. She agreed that there are hardly any lone women, our age, on the trail. Listening to her, I wondered if I ever felt the same way from other travellers, and I realized that maybe I do at times. I know I often say to myself, "why do you have to be so weird? Why can't you just act more normal?" But what does that mean? I really don't think I am that weird ... I think I'm just okay doing my own thing. Which usually makes me a loner, and probably weird in other people's eyes. And as a woman you stand out. That's it. You do. It has been amazing for my confidence to find that ability within myself to just be okay with being alone and having people stare at me. All the time. It's like Korea all over again. But now I'm older. And weirder. This experience has been tough at times, but also very powerful. I feel joyful, and I feel like myself. I am extremely grateful to have had these weeks to myself, to listen to my own heart and act accordingly. What a luxury! Now I'm relaxing in Bangkok. Although I complain about Bangkok, there is a strange charm that makes staying frustratingly enjoyable. I have to admit I love filling up on succulent street meat, crispy spring rolls and tangy papaya salad, love getting beat into alignment  in a massage parlour and love sipping on cold mugs of Singha beer served over ice. This afternoon I accomplished all of the above. Sigh. Tomorrow I fly to Manila. It's been kinda crazy ... One night Georgetown Malaysia, a night on the train, a night in Thailand, a night in the Philippines and then a day in Vancouver before arriving home. So much moving and travelling. What a trip it's been! Wonderful! I'm so lucky! xo 

Juice Stealing Jerk

These monkeys are bold; jumped up on my table, flashed his mean pointy teeth at me and stole my juice! I ran away screaming until the owner came out with the slingshot ... Another relaxing morning on the island ... 

Burnt Money and Circus Monkeys

I'm in Malaysia! I took the train from Chumphon across the border to Butterworth Malaysia and then the ferry to Georgetown on Penang Island. The train was fun ... Dining car, upper birth, staring at the stranger across from you for hours on end ... but it was long 16 hours. However ending up in Georgetown was a nice surprise. As a former colonial hotspot, it is an interesting mix of Malay, Chinese and Indian cultures, and it is artsy and bohemian. Wandering around I came upon little India with Bollywood music blasting, Chinatown with raging street fires of burning paper money, a black and white Malay movie projected on a garden wall and Chinese theatre on the street. A very picturesque and culturally rich place to spend a couple of days. From Georgetown I took two buses and a ferry to get to the westcoast island of Pulau Pangkor. It's fascinating being on the beach in a Muslim country. Again, a total culture shock from Thailand. At first I wasn't sure if I'd be able to wear a bathing suit on the beach, but then I found the "foreigners ghetto" bay and saw bikinis. However, none of the restaurants serve alcohol, and although beer can be bought at the mini mart and brought personally to the beach, it's pretty expensive. It's actually a refreshing change to consider what fruit juice I would like with dinner. This island is full of aggressive food stealing monkeys and hornbill "birds." Within the first 15 minutes of being here I saw a monkey riding a motorbike - no joke - the owner drove while the monkey jumped up and down! Okay ... ?

I'm staying at a quiet little chalet, and randomly, the owner was a former Malaysian diplomat in Burma. When he found out I was in Burma, and had worked with Burmese refugees, he went crazy. After an hour chat, he called me back out of my room, and said I'm sorry to disturb you but I'm just so excited, look at these paintings I bought in Burma 10 years ago, and read this article in today's paper about rohingya refugees in Malaysia. He said I'll add you on Facebook, and we can keep in touch, and then we can open a guesthouse on Ngapali Beach. I said, "ok, sounds good to me." I hope we're on the same page about who's funding this endeavour. Love it! The people in Malaysia have been quite kind and it's a nice place to chill out before coming home. I'm definitely not looking forward to returning to life in Regina, but I am ready for a travel companion ... 

When in Rome ...

One conversation leads to purchasing a ticket and before you know it, you're on the island of Ko Tao signed up for a learn to scuba dive course! This was never part of my plan, but I guess my plan leaving Burma was to kinda go with the flow. In the end I just decided that getting a visa and going back to Burma would be too expensive, so I chose to start moving South towards Malaysia. Ko Tao is a diving and snorkelling island. It's packed with tourists, and I ended up in a room next to an all night pool bar! Culture shock! It's fascinating to people watch the mix of Chinese, Scandinavian, French, Italian and British tourists here. At times it is hilarious to see the cultures clash and watch the reactions  ... This is especially evident watching the Chinese on the beach next to the Italians ... Makes my day :) In someways I haven't left Burma as all the workers here are Burmese. So I still get to say "Mingalaba" and "Jezutinbaday" and have interesting conversations about Burma. 

I did the learn to dive course, which was scary, but I'm glad I did it. I can't believe I actually made it, considering I still can't put my face under the water without pinching my nose.  Seeing the coral and swimming around with these large, strange colourful fish is like being transported to a whole new world ... Wow! Yesterday I took a taxi boat to another island for snorkelling. Really beautiful and fun. Fascinating to watch the absolute chaos of the taxi boats. You have to climb over 10 longtail boats to find your own and everyone is yelling and driving around all crazy... But somehow you get back, totally soaked and thanking the universe you are still alive, and all is fine. I'm burnt red, but loving the sun. Tonight I'm heading by ferry and train to Malaysia ... Hopefully the beautiful weather follows me.  xo

Making a Thai man cry ...

Typical ... I've been in Thailand for four days and I made a man cry ... All I said was, "when the King dies who's going to replace him?" Bring on the water works. He told me he loves the king very much and then hung over the railing weeping for a few awkward minutes ... Sorry? I had to apologize profusely and tell him his love for the king was very special and I'm sure the king will live forever. Geez! I didn't realize it was such a sensitive topic ... Good to know ... I am in Chumphon on my way to the island of Ko Tao tomorrow. I love these random stops where you meet interesting people ... The king lover, the lady at the book store who said I looked like a model and asked to take my picture ( geez ego boosting) ... And the grannie on the train that took me under her wing, and who I accidentally flashed a naked picture of my butt covered in bug bites ( we'll discuss that later) to ... Super random and fun. And I finally got some books! All the travellers in Burma seemed to be French and I could not find any English books. I felt so deprived ... I'm stocked up now! Yeah!! I was feeling a little down about being in Thailand ... Bangkok is tiresome ... But it's nice to be out on the road. I have zero pics so far ... So none to share ... 

Last post re: Burma ... I think ...

Wow! It's been a lot of moving lately ... From Taungoo, where I spent my birthday, I took the train to Bago. I absolutely love the train. It's insane how bumpy it is but it's a great way to interact with people and see parts of the country that you wouldn't normally see. This particular train went through Kayin (Karen) state. Much of this area is closed to foreigners due to active fighting and resistance from the Karen resistance armies. The train is a great way to see parts of this area. I love hanging out the windows and waving at everyone in the fields and villages. Everyone waves at the train passing. It's so fun! 

I wasn't all that interested in Bago, especially since I had to pay a $10 fee to see any sites, that I'm sure went straight to the government. But I found the people of Bago to be absolutely incredible. My dinner was even free as the lady at the mohinga stand insisted it was her gift to me ... All communicated through gestures of course. She refused to let me pay. I had a room with a beautiful view and actually had a surprisingly nice time there. From Bago, I took the bus back to Hpa-an. I stayed in a different guesthouse - no bed bugs - and met an older French couple that I travelled to the Thai border with the next day. We travelled by taxi and our driver was amazing. We could see the flooding all around us and the road was packed with taxis loaded in impossible ways with people's belongings. People were clearly loading everything they could and trying to get away from the flooding. I have no idea where they were going to put all that stuff. Mixed with the fleeing people were a few military trucks, but along the road people were trying to dig their own drainage ditches, with no military presence. It was so strange crossing the border. At the Burmese immigration we sat down, had a 20 minute chat, lots of laughs, help with loading bags, well wishes, thanks for visiting our country, please come again ... On the Thai side ... Ignored, wait, ignored, grouchy face, passports thrown back at you ... slightly different. I spent the day in Mae Sot which actually felt really nice to go back to this interesting border town. I found the WEAVE shop and the NGO borderline cafe. I shopped and ate my favourite things. It was nice to revisit the memories and make new ones.

Now I'm in Bangkok ... And as much as I don't like Bangkok, I'm loving the food! Thailand definitely wins for the best street eats anywhere! What next ... I'd like to go back to Burma ... But getting a visa and flight would be expensive ... Maybe the train to Malsysia ... Just not sure ... I'm not sure how much I'll write now as I feel

less inspired after leaving Burma ...

This picture I took of myself crossing the border in the rain just kills me, so I had to post it ...  

Flooding

I am just reading about the extreme flooding in Burma. I am currently in Hpa'an in the south where there has been flooding, and people are displaced. But there is a relief effort here and this area is  more easily accessible for aid. However, I see the far north has been the most affected. I am so grateful to have had the opportunity to leave Sittwe when I did. There was little to no warning given to the people about the severity of the flooding and the possibility of a cyclone. As I had the luxury of access to the BBC, I could hear that as a possibility. I feel so sad for all the people affected. This is the poorest part of the country and in some ways completely isolated. The corrupt government is calling for support from the international community. If you have the opportunity to donate to the people of Burma (Myanmar) through a reputable international organization collecting donations, please considering doing so. 

They run a tight ship

One thing I haven't written about much is Buddhism. As 90% of the population are devout Buddhists, it's been fascinating to experience Burmese Buddhism. From my time at the monastery and visiting Buddhist sites, I have often struggled to feel the Buddhist tenets of compassion for all sentient beings and have struggled to find any sort of spiritual connection to the practice of Buddhism here. It's interesting to observe and try to weave through the complexities of how much the practices at play are cultural versus how much is based on religion and whether the two can be separated. At many religious sites there are signs that clearly indicate that women are forbidden from entering altars or other special areas. At the famous golden rock, women are forbidden from going near the rock or applying the gold squares offered as prayer. In the monasteries there is a clear hierarchy with monks well ahead of any nun. As the rules indicate, a senior nun will bow to a monk ordained that same day. Monks eat first, followed by Burmese nuns, foreign nuns, foreign yogis and then local yogis (lay people). I have struggled with these culturally accepted practices and have found the practice of Buddhism to be conservative and serious. And yet I have also learned and have seen that the monasteries act as the social welfare system for the people. The people care for the monastics by feeding them and donating to them, and in turn the people are cared for. In times of flooding when people's homes are washed away, as Burma is experiencing right now, the people take refuge at the monastery. Many monasteries offer free food everyday for people. And they also act as orphanages and schools for children who would otherwise likely be on the street. During Muslim/Buddhist clashes, Muslims in Rakine took refuge in a local Buddhist monastery and were protected by the monks. That is where the compassion resides. The practice is traditional and conservative, but it offers the protection and assistance that the people require. The way the system works, the natural circle of giving, is quite beautiful. The people spend a lot of money building their pagodas and temples, which I have questioned, but I think their generosity is returned when they need it most. 

Turning 34 in Taungoo

How the hell did I get to be 34? Just a short post to say I had a super awesome birthday! I am in Taungoo and staying at the Myanmar Beauty Guest House II, III, IV ( for real that's the name). The breakfast at this place is truly surreal. That table is breakfast for one!
I had planned to rent a bike and tour the nearby villages. After putting a new set of pedals on my bike (I only had one) I met a Spanish guy named Iñaki who wanted to tour too. So together we visited a couple of villages that clearly do not see a lot of foreigners. Everyone was coming out of their houses to greet us and say hello. People loading corn tried to send us home with ten cobs of corn which we needed to kindly refuse. It was really lovely. We stopped at a small place on the road to drink some warm beer and wait out the rain. The hosts gave us some roasted, what I think were, water chestnuts. Very memorable. I splurged and bought a crap bottle of wine. Right now I'm at the guesthouse which is tucked in next to rice paddies and farmers' fields, drinking wine and listening to young men play their guitars and sing. It's peaceful, and absolutely ideal. A day I can be truly grateful for!