They run a tight ship

One thing I haven't written about much is Buddhism. As 90% of the population are devout Buddhists, it's been fascinating to experience Burmese Buddhism. From my time at the monastery and visiting Buddhist sites, I have often struggled to feel the Buddhist tenets of compassion for all sentient beings and have struggled to find any sort of spiritual connection to the practice of Buddhism here. It's interesting to observe and try to weave through the complexities of how much the practices at play are cultural versus how much is based on religion and whether the two can be separated. At many religious sites there are signs that clearly indicate that women are forbidden from entering altars or other special areas. At the famous golden rock, women are forbidden from going near the rock or applying the gold squares offered as prayer. In the monasteries there is a clear hierarchy with monks well ahead of any nun. As the rules indicate, a senior nun will bow to a monk ordained that same day. Monks eat first, followed by Burmese nuns, foreign nuns, foreign yogis and then local yogis (lay people). I have struggled with these culturally accepted practices and have found the practice of Buddhism to be conservative and serious. And yet I have also learned and have seen that the monasteries act as the social welfare system for the people. The people care for the monastics by feeding them and donating to them, and in turn the people are cared for. In times of flooding when people's homes are washed away, as Burma is experiencing right now, the people take refuge at the monastery. Many monasteries offer free food everyday for people. And they also act as orphanages and schools for children who would otherwise likely be on the street. During Muslim/Buddhist clashes, Muslims in Rakine took refuge in a local Buddhist monastery and were protected by the monks. That is where the compassion resides. The practice is traditional and conservative, but it offers the protection and assistance that the people require. The way the system works, the natural circle of giving, is quite beautiful. The people spend a lot of money building their pagodas and temples, which I have questioned, but I think their generosity is returned when they need it most.