Ok one last one ... Manila!!

I'm staying in the red light district in Manila. Of course. The sign posted below my hostel is a tempting offer ... I do have a good personality ..., but alas I need to get home. Ordering food tonight was not necessarily easy ... I don't know a lot about the the Philipphines, but what I DO know is they eat pork ... All of it ... So I knew I better ask what I'm about to eat before I choose. So ... I say, this pork dish, what part of the pig is this? Ah, it's pork. Yes, but what part? Ah, it's part of the face. Ok, thank you, I'll choose a different part. I met some really lovely Filipinos who invited me to join them - and had varying opinions on my aloneness. My favourite was one of the ladies who said, it's been so nice to meet such a brave lady.  Aww! Thanks! I also met a nice German at the night market and we had a few San Miguel and enjoyed listening to some local karaoke. One night in Manila but memorable in a chilling way. In the morning I really got a sense of the red light district. I went for breakfast and I was the only woman other than the young girls being called off the street by ugly fat old men or those leaving the adjoining hotel leaving ugly fat old men. Initially I was so disgusted I took some pictures and thought I'm going to share your disgusting faces so people can see you. But then I just decided to stare, and exert my own power. And I could feel their discomfort with me. One 60 year old white loser in particular was very uncomfortable, squirming in his chair, as I stared him down with two 17 year olds at his table. I made a point of walking around him, buying a few things sold  there next to him, all the while throwing him looks of disgust. He didn't like that. When my breakfast came out with an American flag in it, I felt so angry by that symbol of capitalism and inequality, that I grabbed it and ripped it up in my own silent protest. And then I laughed at how crazy I seemed. That experience was an eye opener to the Asian sex trade, and reminded me of  things I saw and experienced in Cambodia 11 years ago, reminding me yet again that we are a long way from equality for women. I hope there is power in this work for the women, and if possible the girls. I hope they use those assholes, make their money, and are able to take care of themselves in the future. 

That's a wrap!

"Come from where?" "Canada." "Oh Canada, that's in Europe?" "No, North America." "Oh, close to Denmark?" "Ah, nope, close to the United States." "Oh, and Denmark?" "Ah, no, just on top of the U.S., Canada then United States." "Oh, and where is Denmark." "Across the ocean, in Europe." "Oh, but Canada is not in Europe?" "No, it's in North America ... " And around and around we go. I love these random conversations with strangers. I also love contemplating these random things, like why Donald Duck is a guardian spirit of this Chinese Temple ... Can we ever really know the answer to that? I had a really relaxing time on Pulau Pangkor with great hosts at the Ombak Inn. It's was a losing battle with the monkeys, but it kept me on my toes if nothing else. I'm glad I took a few days on the beach before going home. Back to Bangkok for my flight meant another overnight in Georgetown and a 24 hour cross the border train ride. In Georgetown I met Anna from Spain. Thirty-eight years old and out on her own. She found me sitting alone in the Hong Kong Bar, and asked if she could join me. It was great to talk to another woman about politics, love and travelling alone. She said that she often feels other travellers treat her like there is something wrong with her and that she is alone because she HAS to be alone. She agreed that there are hardly any lone women, our age, on the trail. Listening to her, I wondered if I ever felt the same way from other travellers, and I realized that maybe I do at times. I know I often say to myself, "why do you have to be so weird? Why can't you just act more normal?" But what does that mean? I really don't think I am that weird ... I think I'm just okay doing my own thing. Which usually makes me a loner, and probably weird in other people's eyes. And as a woman you stand out. That's it. You do. It has been amazing for my confidence to find that ability within myself to just be okay with being alone and having people stare at me. All the time. It's like Korea all over again. But now I'm older. And weirder. This experience has been tough at times, but also very powerful. I feel joyful, and I feel like myself. I am extremely grateful to have had these weeks to myself, to listen to my own heart and act accordingly. What a luxury! Now I'm relaxing in Bangkok. Although I complain about Bangkok, there is a strange charm that makes staying frustratingly enjoyable. I have to admit I love filling up on succulent street meat, crispy spring rolls and tangy papaya salad, love getting beat into alignment  in a massage parlour and love sipping on cold mugs of Singha beer served over ice. This afternoon I accomplished all of the above. Sigh. Tomorrow I fly to Manila. It's been kinda crazy ... One night Georgetown Malaysia, a night on the train, a night in Thailand, a night in the Philippines and then a day in Vancouver before arriving home. So much moving and travelling. What a trip it's been! Wonderful! I'm so lucky! xo 

Juice Stealing Jerk

These monkeys are bold; jumped up on my table, flashed his mean pointy teeth at me and stole my juice! I ran away screaming until the owner came out with the slingshot ... Another relaxing morning on the island ... 

Burnt Money and Circus Monkeys

I'm in Malaysia! I took the train from Chumphon across the border to Butterworth Malaysia and then the ferry to Georgetown on Penang Island. The train was fun ... Dining car, upper birth, staring at the stranger across from you for hours on end ... but it was long 16 hours. However ending up in Georgetown was a nice surprise. As a former colonial hotspot, it is an interesting mix of Malay, Chinese and Indian cultures, and it is artsy and bohemian. Wandering around I came upon little India with Bollywood music blasting, Chinatown with raging street fires of burning paper money, a black and white Malay movie projected on a garden wall and Chinese theatre on the street. A very picturesque and culturally rich place to spend a couple of days. From Georgetown I took two buses and a ferry to get to the westcoast island of Pulau Pangkor. It's fascinating being on the beach in a Muslim country. Again, a total culture shock from Thailand. At first I wasn't sure if I'd be able to wear a bathing suit on the beach, but then I found the "foreigners ghetto" bay and saw bikinis. However, none of the restaurants serve alcohol, and although beer can be bought at the mini mart and brought personally to the beach, it's pretty expensive. It's actually a refreshing change to consider what fruit juice I would like with dinner. This island is full of aggressive food stealing monkeys and hornbill "birds." Within the first 15 minutes of being here I saw a monkey riding a motorbike - no joke - the owner drove while the monkey jumped up and down! Okay ... ?

I'm staying at a quiet little chalet, and randomly, the owner was a former Malaysian diplomat in Burma. When he found out I was in Burma, and had worked with Burmese refugees, he went crazy. After an hour chat, he called me back out of my room, and said I'm sorry to disturb you but I'm just so excited, look at these paintings I bought in Burma 10 years ago, and read this article in today's paper about rohingya refugees in Malaysia. He said I'll add you on Facebook, and we can keep in touch, and then we can open a guesthouse on Ngapali Beach. I said, "ok, sounds good to me." I hope we're on the same page about who's funding this endeavour. Love it! The people in Malaysia have been quite kind and it's a nice place to chill out before coming home. I'm definitely not looking forward to returning to life in Regina, but I am ready for a travel companion ... 

When in Rome ...

One conversation leads to purchasing a ticket and before you know it, you're on the island of Ko Tao signed up for a learn to scuba dive course! This was never part of my plan, but I guess my plan leaving Burma was to kinda go with the flow. In the end I just decided that getting a visa and going back to Burma would be too expensive, so I chose to start moving South towards Malaysia. Ko Tao is a diving and snorkelling island. It's packed with tourists, and I ended up in a room next to an all night pool bar! Culture shock! It's fascinating to people watch the mix of Chinese, Scandinavian, French, Italian and British tourists here. At times it is hilarious to see the cultures clash and watch the reactions  ... This is especially evident watching the Chinese on the beach next to the Italians ... Makes my day :) In someways I haven't left Burma as all the workers here are Burmese. So I still get to say "Mingalaba" and "Jezutinbaday" and have interesting conversations about Burma. 

I did the learn to dive course, which was scary, but I'm glad I did it. I can't believe I actually made it, considering I still can't put my face under the water without pinching my nose.  Seeing the coral and swimming around with these large, strange colourful fish is like being transported to a whole new world ... Wow! Yesterday I took a taxi boat to another island for snorkelling. Really beautiful and fun. Fascinating to watch the absolute chaos of the taxi boats. You have to climb over 10 longtail boats to find your own and everyone is yelling and driving around all crazy... But somehow you get back, totally soaked and thanking the universe you are still alive, and all is fine. I'm burnt red, but loving the sun. Tonight I'm heading by ferry and train to Malaysia ... Hopefully the beautiful weather follows me.  xo

Making a Thai man cry ...

Typical ... I've been in Thailand for four days and I made a man cry ... All I said was, "when the King dies who's going to replace him?" Bring on the water works. He told me he loves the king very much and then hung over the railing weeping for a few awkward minutes ... Sorry? I had to apologize profusely and tell him his love for the king was very special and I'm sure the king will live forever. Geez! I didn't realize it was such a sensitive topic ... Good to know ... I am in Chumphon on my way to the island of Ko Tao tomorrow. I love these random stops where you meet interesting people ... The king lover, the lady at the book store who said I looked like a model and asked to take my picture ( geez ego boosting) ... And the grannie on the train that took me under her wing, and who I accidentally flashed a naked picture of my butt covered in bug bites ( we'll discuss that later) to ... Super random and fun. And I finally got some books! All the travellers in Burma seemed to be French and I could not find any English books. I felt so deprived ... I'm stocked up now! Yeah!! I was feeling a little down about being in Thailand ... Bangkok is tiresome ... But it's nice to be out on the road. I have zero pics so far ... So none to share ... 

Last post re: Burma ... I think ...

Wow! It's been a lot of moving lately ... From Taungoo, where I spent my birthday, I took the train to Bago. I absolutely love the train. It's insane how bumpy it is but it's a great way to interact with people and see parts of the country that you wouldn't normally see. This particular train went through Kayin (Karen) state. Much of this area is closed to foreigners due to active fighting and resistance from the Karen resistance armies. The train is a great way to see parts of this area. I love hanging out the windows and waving at everyone in the fields and villages. Everyone waves at the train passing. It's so fun! 

I wasn't all that interested in Bago, especially since I had to pay a $10 fee to see any sites, that I'm sure went straight to the government. But I found the people of Bago to be absolutely incredible. My dinner was even free as the lady at the mohinga stand insisted it was her gift to me ... All communicated through gestures of course. She refused to let me pay. I had a room with a beautiful view and actually had a surprisingly nice time there. From Bago, I took the bus back to Hpa-an. I stayed in a different guesthouse - no bed bugs - and met an older French couple that I travelled to the Thai border with the next day. We travelled by taxi and our driver was amazing. We could see the flooding all around us and the road was packed with taxis loaded in impossible ways with people's belongings. People were clearly loading everything they could and trying to get away from the flooding. I have no idea where they were going to put all that stuff. Mixed with the fleeing people were a few military trucks, but along the road people were trying to dig their own drainage ditches, with no military presence. It was so strange crossing the border. At the Burmese immigration we sat down, had a 20 minute chat, lots of laughs, help with loading bags, well wishes, thanks for visiting our country, please come again ... On the Thai side ... Ignored, wait, ignored, grouchy face, passports thrown back at you ... slightly different. I spent the day in Mae Sot which actually felt really nice to go back to this interesting border town. I found the WEAVE shop and the NGO borderline cafe. I shopped and ate my favourite things. It was nice to revisit the memories and make new ones.

Now I'm in Bangkok ... And as much as I don't like Bangkok, I'm loving the food! Thailand definitely wins for the best street eats anywhere! What next ... I'd like to go back to Burma ... But getting a visa and flight would be expensive ... Maybe the train to Malsysia ... Just not sure ... I'm not sure how much I'll write now as I feel

less inspired after leaving Burma ...

This picture I took of myself crossing the border in the rain just kills me, so I had to post it ...  

Flooding

I am just reading about the extreme flooding in Burma. I am currently in Hpa'an in the south where there has been flooding, and people are displaced. But there is a relief effort here and this area is  more easily accessible for aid. However, I see the far north has been the most affected. I am so grateful to have had the opportunity to leave Sittwe when I did. There was little to no warning given to the people about the severity of the flooding and the possibility of a cyclone. As I had the luxury of access to the BBC, I could hear that as a possibility. I feel so sad for all the people affected. This is the poorest part of the country and in some ways completely isolated. The corrupt government is calling for support from the international community. If you have the opportunity to donate to the people of Burma (Myanmar) through a reputable international organization collecting donations, please considering doing so. 

They run a tight ship

One thing I haven't written about much is Buddhism. As 90% of the population are devout Buddhists, it's been fascinating to experience Burmese Buddhism. From my time at the monastery and visiting Buddhist sites, I have often struggled to feel the Buddhist tenets of compassion for all sentient beings and have struggled to find any sort of spiritual connection to the practice of Buddhism here. It's interesting to observe and try to weave through the complexities of how much the practices at play are cultural versus how much is based on religion and whether the two can be separated. At many religious sites there are signs that clearly indicate that women are forbidden from entering altars or other special areas. At the famous golden rock, women are forbidden from going near the rock or applying the gold squares offered as prayer. In the monasteries there is a clear hierarchy with monks well ahead of any nun. As the rules indicate, a senior nun will bow to a monk ordained that same day. Monks eat first, followed by Burmese nuns, foreign nuns, foreign yogis and then local yogis (lay people). I have struggled with these culturally accepted practices and have found the practice of Buddhism to be conservative and serious. And yet I have also learned and have seen that the monasteries act as the social welfare system for the people. The people care for the monastics by feeding them and donating to them, and in turn the people are cared for. In times of flooding when people's homes are washed away, as Burma is experiencing right now, the people take refuge at the monastery. Many monasteries offer free food everyday for people. And they also act as orphanages and schools for children who would otherwise likely be on the street. During Muslim/Buddhist clashes, Muslims in Rakine took refuge in a local Buddhist monastery and were protected by the monks. That is where the compassion resides. The practice is traditional and conservative, but it offers the protection and assistance that the people require. The way the system works, the natural circle of giving, is quite beautiful. The people spend a lot of money building their pagodas and temples, which I have questioned, but I think their generosity is returned when they need it most. 

Turning 34 in Taungoo

How the hell did I get to be 34? Just a short post to say I had a super awesome birthday! I am in Taungoo and staying at the Myanmar Beauty Guest House II, III, IV ( for real that's the name). The breakfast at this place is truly surreal. That table is breakfast for one!
I had planned to rent a bike and tour the nearby villages. After putting a new set of pedals on my bike (I only had one) I met a Spanish guy named Iñaki who wanted to tour too. So together we visited a couple of villages that clearly do not see a lot of foreigners. Everyone was coming out of their houses to greet us and say hello. People loading corn tried to send us home with ten cobs of corn which we needed to kindly refuse. It was really lovely. We stopped at a small place on the road to drink some warm beer and wait out the rain. The hosts gave us some roasted, what I think were, water chestnuts. Very memorable. I splurged and bought a crap bottle of wine. Right now I'm at the guesthouse which is tucked in next to rice paddies and farmers' fields, drinking wine and listening to young men play their guitars and sing. It's peaceful, and absolutely ideal. A day I can be truly grateful for!

No, we're not best friends ...

I arrived in Yangon and immediately bought a plane ticket to fly to Bagan an hour later. As soon as I got on the plane full of tourists, I knew my trip was taking a new turn. Bagan ... 3000 temples ... Incredibly beautiful ... Not my cup of tea. It's not the temples so much, I've actually loved exploring the murals and the architecture, it's just not Burma. Or the Burma I have been experiencing. It's touristy ... Espressos, swimming pools, pizza, everything tripling in price, feeling like you're always getting ripped off. This is the first place I've had men approach me univited and even touch my hair and grab my leg. I had to tell some kid last night that no, we're not best friends, and no I am not going to your house that is just very close. I also had to tell my taxi driver today to stop touching me. I think he got scared of me a little. Perfect. The people of Burma have been beautiful and I find this ugly side of tourism disheartening. I just don't like the feeling here. I think this feeling is compounded by the pounding rain, which makes sightseeing hard, gets me feeling stuck, and I think leads to feelings of loneliness. I've tried to capitalize on the breaks in the rain to walk and bike to some sites on my own. Biking around dirt paths to see sites of my choosing was fantastic! Today I booked a taxi, and although the guy gave me the creeps, I did get to see some lovely temples farther out in the country. Most are from the 11th century and the inner areas are covered with original frescos depicting Buddha's life and images of guardian nats (spirits). Stunning. Getting out into the country also meant getting away from a lot of tourists for the most part. 

All in all, I've had enough of Bagan and am ready to get out of here. After I eat some Indian food tonight ;) Tomorrow I am taking the bus to Thazi and then hopefully catching the train to Taungoo. I am going to try to cross the border where I had initially planned when I came to Burma. I think it's open now. Fingers crossed. My visa expires in four days, so I think I may have to overstay my visa in order for it work. Everyone says it's not a problem. Let's see. 

Cyclone: 1 Meighan: 0

I'm feeling a tad bit defeated as I write this. I am currently in Sittwe on the Bay of Bengal and on my way, by flight, back to Yangon with an uncertain plan. From Ngapali I travelled by "line bus" to Thandwe. A line bus is basically a small Japanese style truck with a short cab and a longer box with benches built in the back to move people and cargo. In Thandwe, my motorcycle taxi driver got me on a larger line bus ... Basically a covered flatbed truck, full of people and cargo. I have no idea if there was a real bus but he said this leaves now, let's go! So I climbed in and we rambled away. We rode on top of the cargo through hilly Rakine rice fields to Taunggok. I had to spend the night in Taunggok which was very basic (and I got a whole new set of swollen bed bugs bites!). In the morning I caught the ferry to Sittwe through the Bay of Bengal. It was a 12 hour ride with blaring Burmese TV and little excitement. It was neat to pull up to small villages scatttered through the islands and also interesting to have the ferry be met by small wooden boats from where people climbed aboard the ferry. I had planned to take the small river ferry to visit the ruins in Mrauk U in the morning. Unfortunately in the morning when I went to the jetty the ferry had been cancelled due to a tropical storm forming in the Bay. I spent the day visiting a small weaving village accessed by small wooden boats on a little creek. Although the weaving was interesting, a highlight was visiting the school and meeting all the little cutie pies there. At one point about 30 little kids were all gathered around me screeching and laughing as we took photos. The school is extremely basic. Equal to or possibly worse than the schools in the refugee camps in Thailand. The village has no power and the students are definitely not getting anything that even comes close to a 21st Century education. 

This morning I got up to the sound of heavy rain and knew the ferry would be cancelled. The problem with Mrauk U is the it's fairly remote, and foreigners are restricted from travelling by bus through many places in the state. On top of that, Rakine is one of the poorest regions in the country and infrastructure is crumbling and non-existent. There is no internet, limited power and patchy running water. This does not make living, or travelling, easy. After I learned the ferry was cancelled, I was told I could get a seat on a bus but when I went to the bus station they said that buses were cancelled as villages and roads were completely flooded. After discussing it with the hotel staff, it was decided that it was best to give up on getting Mrauk U and fly back to Yangon (the only available destination from Sittwe) and decide what next. The BBC is warning this storm could turn into a cyclone, so it's best to be safe even if I am questioning my initial decision to travel here. It's been an interesting journey and I've learned a lot about real life in Burma, and the daily struggles people experience. Although not everyone agrees how, every single person is clear that they want change in their country and they want fair and just democracy. This is so evident in Rakine, which feels completely left behind. Life in Burma is living meditation practice - be in the moment, be flexible and accept what you cannot control. I'm also reminded that as a Westerner, I have the fortune of being able to buy my way out on a flight. So - to Yangon - and regroup ... 

Being a woman

Although very safe and rather hassle free, I do notice being a single woman on my own. Often, in many restaurants, tea houses and beer stalls, I am the lone woman in a room full of men. Often older men will ask me if I am "one" or if I am by myself. When I say yes, they look surprised, and usually kinda impressed, as if they're saying, "not bad lady, not bad." I met a nice younger man who works for a driver with the UNHCR in the refugee camps near Sittwe. He could speak English well and he said, "why did you decide to come by yourself? Don't you have friends?" Valid question. When asked if I came alone, another man remarked "Amazing! Are you a government worker? Did you fly?" "No, I took the ferry, I'm just traveling." "That's Absolutely Amazing!" I wonder if it would be so amazing if I was a man. The travel book, written by all male authors, says a basic blurb about travel bring easy and safe for women if you dress appropriately, ie. don't show your shoulders or knees. It definitely feels safe, but the nuances of being alone are both subtle and very obvious as a woman actually out on her own. I guess I am a unique breed being mid thirties on my own. I'm old enough, which equals having the confidence and "off the beaten track" skills enough to get off the tourist circuit, and I think most women my age are not out travelling on their own. I don't think they see a lot of foreigners in Rakine, and definitely not lone women. It's a confidence boosting and, at times, lonely experience. Overall people are helpfulish, but in general seem surprised at my existence which I think results in hestitaion and an uncertainty of what I could possibly be looking for, such as " how do I cross this street?" "Food?" "Eat?" "Long bread thing that everyone else is eating please"... All phrases accompanied with very clear hand signals and other theatrical nonverbal communication. This is usually met with a open mouthed blank stare. Sometimes it's just too funny, and sometimes I think, are you kidding me? I haven't starved or been run over yet, so I guess I'm doing okay. 

Transit

I made it to Ngapali Beach with is situated on the west coast in the Bay of Bengal. Ngapali is Burma's "resort area." It definitely is resorty in a way that Europeans tend to prefer with small bungalows and wooden structures built along the beach, and thankfully not in the preferred North American style of monster hotels and walled complexes. And, because it's rainy season, it's as the lonely planet describes, virtually comatose. There are a handful, maybe 8 westerns who are trotting around, braving the ocean wind and rain. For me it has been a welcomed break from travel. I'm eating delicious fruit and seafood, reading and writing, and just watching the waves and life in the fishing village down the beach. It's a nice place to regroup and make some decisions about what's next. I've been trying to explore all means of travel and avoid flying as much as possible. This means adventure but it's also tiring. From Yangon I took a 9 hour train ride to the small city of Pyay. Clearly the track and the train are not maintained as the trip was beyond bumpy. There were times when I was bounced right out of my seat. It was incredible! Fun and crazy, but also eye opening that this is considered a legitimate "safe" travel option. I spent the day wandering around Pyay, and stayed at the Smile Hotel, which could have been used to film The Shining. There are about 40 staff who jump up when you enter the hotel, and who all subsequently just stand there and stare at you, until you head to your room and then they all sit down and continue watching their American action movie. From the hotel I took a motorbike taxi to the bus station. Motorbike taxis are a regular means of transportation in South East Asia and I've dodged traffick on the back of a motorbike in Vietnam, Cambodia and in the heart of downtown Bangkok. But zipping through Pyay, big backpack on my back, wind blowing in my face, I was reminded how much I love this feeling. At once, I felt a sense of freedom, felt alive and this liberating sense of power as my driver wove in and out of other motorbikes, bicycles and rickshaws. In many ways it defines everything I love about travelling - freedom, adventure, risk, spontaneity and being connected to everything around while ultimately being responsible for myself to just hang on. I love it! From Pyay I took an overnight minibus through the mountains to Ngapali. To be honest, this has been the most hellish part so far. Fourteen people crammed in with a bunch of cargo. I read that the road is winding and vomit inducing, which is a guarantee that I'll throw up, so I took a couple of gravol before we left. I was basically passing out before even left the city limits. I had my dorky neck pillow that I impulsively bought in Vancouver on the way, and that I am eternally grateful for, and my trusty ear plugs. I probably would have just slept the whole way except for the fact that we stopped every half an hour for food, military checks, unloading cargo and coffee breaks. To be honest the trip was spooky. We were in the pitch black mountains and there was a hanging misty fog all around. The stops were confusing and strange. Because it was dark it was hard to see but our driver had to give our identification at the military checkpoints and everything about the stops, from the military tracking, to the permeating smell of urine, to the desolate isolated roadside restaurants felt unnerving. I'm sure in the daytime it would have a completely different feel, but I was really happy to arrive at 6:00 AM. That mountain trip took me into the state of Rakine, home to Ngapali Beach and the Rohingya refugee population. Much of this state was closed off a few years ago, but now some parts are open. I am going to travel by boat to Sittwe, where much of the persecution of the Rohingya has taken place in the last few years, and then travel by river boat to Mrauk U. I'm interested to get a sense of the situation in Sittwe and then visit still fairly isolated ancient ruins at Mrauk U. I hope the journey all works out and I can make it there. I don't have any service at Ngapali and I'm not sure when I will, so this could be posted quite late. xo