Although very safe and rather hassle free, I do notice being a single woman on my own. Often, in many restaurants, tea houses and beer stalls, I am the lone woman in a room full of men. Often older men will ask me if I am "one" or if I am by myself. When I say yes, they look surprised, and usually kinda impressed, as if they're saying, "not bad lady, not bad." I met a nice younger man who works for a driver with the UNHCR in the refugee camps near Sittwe. He could speak English well and he said, "why did you decide to come by yourself? Don't you have friends?" Valid question. When asked if I came alone, another man remarked "Amazing! Are you a government worker? Did you fly?" "No, I took the ferry, I'm just traveling." "That's Absolutely Amazing!" I wonder if it would be so amazing if I was a man. The travel book, written by all male authors, says a basic blurb about travel bring easy and safe for women if you dress appropriately, ie. don't show your shoulders or knees. It definitely feels safe, but the nuances of being alone are both subtle and very obvious as a woman actually out on her own. I guess I am a unique breed being mid thirties on my own. I'm old enough, which equals having the confidence and "off the beaten track" skills enough to get off the tourist circuit, and I think most women my age are not out travelling on their own. I don't think they see a lot of foreigners in Rakine, and definitely not lone women. It's a confidence boosting and, at times, lonely experience. Overall people are helpfulish, but in general seem surprised at my existence which I think results in hestitaion and an uncertainty of what I could possibly be looking for, such as " how do I cross this street?" "Food?" "Eat?" "Long bread thing that everyone else is eating please"... All phrases accompanied with very clear hand signals and other theatrical nonverbal communication. This is usually met with a open mouthed blank stare. Sometimes it's just too funny, and sometimes I think, are you kidding me? I haven't starved or been run over yet, so I guess I'm doing okay.
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