No, we're not best friends ...

I arrived in Yangon and immediately bought a plane ticket to fly to Bagan an hour later. As soon as I got on the plane full of tourists, I knew my trip was taking a new turn. Bagan ... 3000 temples ... Incredibly beautiful ... Not my cup of tea. It's not the temples so much, I've actually loved exploring the murals and the architecture, it's just not Burma. Or the Burma I have been experiencing. It's touristy ... Espressos, swimming pools, pizza, everything tripling in price, feeling like you're always getting ripped off. This is the first place I've had men approach me univited and even touch my hair and grab my leg. I had to tell some kid last night that no, we're not best friends, and no I am not going to your house that is just very close. I also had to tell my taxi driver today to stop touching me. I think he got scared of me a little. Perfect. The people of Burma have been beautiful and I find this ugly side of tourism disheartening. I just don't like the feeling here. I think this feeling is compounded by the pounding rain, which makes sightseeing hard, gets me feeling stuck, and I think leads to feelings of loneliness. I've tried to capitalize on the breaks in the rain to walk and bike to some sites on my own. Biking around dirt paths to see sites of my choosing was fantastic! Today I booked a taxi, and although the guy gave me the creeps, I did get to see some lovely temples farther out in the country. Most are from the 11th century and the inner areas are covered with original frescos depicting Buddha's life and images of guardian nats (spirits). Stunning. Getting out into the country also meant getting away from a lot of tourists for the most part. 

All in all, I've had enough of Bagan and am ready to get out of here. After I eat some Indian food tonight ;) Tomorrow I am taking the bus to Thazi and then hopefully catching the train to Taungoo. I am going to try to cross the border where I had initially planned when I came to Burma. I think it's open now. Fingers crossed. My visa expires in four days, so I think I may have to overstay my visa in order for it work. Everyone says it's not a problem. Let's see. 

Cyclone: 1 Meighan: 0

I'm feeling a tad bit defeated as I write this. I am currently in Sittwe on the Bay of Bengal and on my way, by flight, back to Yangon with an uncertain plan. From Ngapali I travelled by "line bus" to Thandwe. A line bus is basically a small Japanese style truck with a short cab and a longer box with benches built in the back to move people and cargo. In Thandwe, my motorcycle taxi driver got me on a larger line bus ... Basically a covered flatbed truck, full of people and cargo. I have no idea if there was a real bus but he said this leaves now, let's go! So I climbed in and we rambled away. We rode on top of the cargo through hilly Rakine rice fields to Taunggok. I had to spend the night in Taunggok which was very basic (and I got a whole new set of swollen bed bugs bites!). In the morning I caught the ferry to Sittwe through the Bay of Bengal. It was a 12 hour ride with blaring Burmese TV and little excitement. It was neat to pull up to small villages scatttered through the islands and also interesting to have the ferry be met by small wooden boats from where people climbed aboard the ferry. I had planned to take the small river ferry to visit the ruins in Mrauk U in the morning. Unfortunately in the morning when I went to the jetty the ferry had been cancelled due to a tropical storm forming in the Bay. I spent the day visiting a small weaving village accessed by small wooden boats on a little creek. Although the weaving was interesting, a highlight was visiting the school and meeting all the little cutie pies there. At one point about 30 little kids were all gathered around me screeching and laughing as we took photos. The school is extremely basic. Equal to or possibly worse than the schools in the refugee camps in Thailand. The village has no power and the students are definitely not getting anything that even comes close to a 21st Century education. 

This morning I got up to the sound of heavy rain and knew the ferry would be cancelled. The problem with Mrauk U is the it's fairly remote, and foreigners are restricted from travelling by bus through many places in the state. On top of that, Rakine is one of the poorest regions in the country and infrastructure is crumbling and non-existent. There is no internet, limited power and patchy running water. This does not make living, or travelling, easy. After I learned the ferry was cancelled, I was told I could get a seat on a bus but when I went to the bus station they said that buses were cancelled as villages and roads were completely flooded. After discussing it with the hotel staff, it was decided that it was best to give up on getting Mrauk U and fly back to Yangon (the only available destination from Sittwe) and decide what next. The BBC is warning this storm could turn into a cyclone, so it's best to be safe even if I am questioning my initial decision to travel here. It's been an interesting journey and I've learned a lot about real life in Burma, and the daily struggles people experience. Although not everyone agrees how, every single person is clear that they want change in their country and they want fair and just democracy. This is so evident in Rakine, which feels completely left behind. Life in Burma is living meditation practice - be in the moment, be flexible and accept what you cannot control. I'm also reminded that as a Westerner, I have the fortune of being able to buy my way out on a flight. So - to Yangon - and regroup ... 

Being a woman

Although very safe and rather hassle free, I do notice being a single woman on my own. Often, in many restaurants, tea houses and beer stalls, I am the lone woman in a room full of men. Often older men will ask me if I am "one" or if I am by myself. When I say yes, they look surprised, and usually kinda impressed, as if they're saying, "not bad lady, not bad." I met a nice younger man who works for a driver with the UNHCR in the refugee camps near Sittwe. He could speak English well and he said, "why did you decide to come by yourself? Don't you have friends?" Valid question. When asked if I came alone, another man remarked "Amazing! Are you a government worker? Did you fly?" "No, I took the ferry, I'm just traveling." "That's Absolutely Amazing!" I wonder if it would be so amazing if I was a man. The travel book, written by all male authors, says a basic blurb about travel bring easy and safe for women if you dress appropriately, ie. don't show your shoulders or knees. It definitely feels safe, but the nuances of being alone are both subtle and very obvious as a woman actually out on her own. I guess I am a unique breed being mid thirties on my own. I'm old enough, which equals having the confidence and "off the beaten track" skills enough to get off the tourist circuit, and I think most women my age are not out travelling on their own. I don't think they see a lot of foreigners in Rakine, and definitely not lone women. It's a confidence boosting and, at times, lonely experience. Overall people are helpfulish, but in general seem surprised at my existence which I think results in hestitaion and an uncertainty of what I could possibly be looking for, such as " how do I cross this street?" "Food?" "Eat?" "Long bread thing that everyone else is eating please"... All phrases accompanied with very clear hand signals and other theatrical nonverbal communication. This is usually met with a open mouthed blank stare. Sometimes it's just too funny, and sometimes I think, are you kidding me? I haven't starved or been run over yet, so I guess I'm doing okay. 

Transit

I made it to Ngapali Beach with is situated on the west coast in the Bay of Bengal. Ngapali is Burma's "resort area." It definitely is resorty in a way that Europeans tend to prefer with small bungalows and wooden structures built along the beach, and thankfully not in the preferred North American style of monster hotels and walled complexes. And, because it's rainy season, it's as the lonely planet describes, virtually comatose. There are a handful, maybe 8 westerns who are trotting around, braving the ocean wind and rain. For me it has been a welcomed break from travel. I'm eating delicious fruit and seafood, reading and writing, and just watching the waves and life in the fishing village down the beach. It's a nice place to regroup and make some decisions about what's next. I've been trying to explore all means of travel and avoid flying as much as possible. This means adventure but it's also tiring. From Yangon I took a 9 hour train ride to the small city of Pyay. Clearly the track and the train are not maintained as the trip was beyond bumpy. There were times when I was bounced right out of my seat. It was incredible! Fun and crazy, but also eye opening that this is considered a legitimate "safe" travel option. I spent the day wandering around Pyay, and stayed at the Smile Hotel, which could have been used to film The Shining. There are about 40 staff who jump up when you enter the hotel, and who all subsequently just stand there and stare at you, until you head to your room and then they all sit down and continue watching their American action movie. From the hotel I took a motorbike taxi to the bus station. Motorbike taxis are a regular means of transportation in South East Asia and I've dodged traffick on the back of a motorbike in Vietnam, Cambodia and in the heart of downtown Bangkok. But zipping through Pyay, big backpack on my back, wind blowing in my face, I was reminded how much I love this feeling. At once, I felt a sense of freedom, felt alive and this liberating sense of power as my driver wove in and out of other motorbikes, bicycles and rickshaws. In many ways it defines everything I love about travelling - freedom, adventure, risk, spontaneity and being connected to everything around while ultimately being responsible for myself to just hang on. I love it! From Pyay I took an overnight minibus through the mountains to Ngapali. To be honest, this has been the most hellish part so far. Fourteen people crammed in with a bunch of cargo. I read that the road is winding and vomit inducing, which is a guarantee that I'll throw up, so I took a couple of gravol before we left. I was basically passing out before even left the city limits. I had my dorky neck pillow that I impulsively bought in Vancouver on the way, and that I am eternally grateful for, and my trusty ear plugs. I probably would have just slept the whole way except for the fact that we stopped every half an hour for food, military checks, unloading cargo and coffee breaks. To be honest the trip was spooky. We were in the pitch black mountains and there was a hanging misty fog all around. The stops were confusing and strange. Because it was dark it was hard to see but our driver had to give our identification at the military checkpoints and everything about the stops, from the military tracking, to the permeating smell of urine, to the desolate isolated roadside restaurants felt unnerving. I'm sure in the daytime it would have a completely different feel, but I was really happy to arrive at 6:00 AM. That mountain trip took me into the state of Rakine, home to Ngapali Beach and the Rohingya refugee population. Much of this state was closed off a few years ago, but now some parts are open. I am going to travel by boat to Sittwe, where much of the persecution of the Rohingya has taken place in the last few years, and then travel by river boat to Mrauk U. I'm interested to get a sense of the situation in Sittwe and then visit still fairly isolated ancient ruins at Mrauk U. I hope the journey all works out and I can make it there. I don't have any service at Ngapali and I'm not sure when I will, so this could be posted quite late. xo

Aung San Suu Kyi ... For real!

It's not everyday that you get to wave at someone you respect and admire! I actually waved at Aung San Suu Kyi today! And basically by accident! I did go to see her house, which actually means seeing the huge locked and razor wired front gate. It was pretty quiet ... Just me standing there taking photos. I then decided to walk along Inya lake, and take a photo from the back. I then got down to the street because I was trying to figure out how I was going to cross the busy highway like street to find a train stop. I was wandering around talking to myself about how impossible it is to get anywhere, when I heard loud music blaring from a truck. I looked down the street and there was a line of vehicles coming towards me all draped in NLD flags and signs. I was totally confused, and probably looked completely stunned. My immediate reaction was to start waving, like I was watching a parade?! I have no idea why I did that, but everyone waved back too! The first cars drove by with young people, followed by a car or two with older members in dress shirts and party pins, and then her car drove by. She was sitting in backseat, and I waved! Only after that did I reach for my camera. Pretty exciting! Right place, right time. I guess it pays to be lost and confused sometimes! 

Meditation Bootcamp

I'm in Burma! Wow! I can't believe it! Rather than sending group emails, I decided to continue my blog from when I was working on the Thai-Burma border, as this feels like an extension of that trip.
My initial plan was to cross the border at Mae Sot where I was stationed when I did my thesis research, but two days before I was to cross, the border closed due to fighting between Karen ethic armies and Burmese military. The closure was due to the new road that is to officially open at the end of the month and that will make travel between Thailand and Burma much faster and easier. The Karen armies have begun collecting illegal tax on the road. The military, who also collects illegally, fired at the Karen to tell them to stop, and the Karen fired back. Soldiers on both sides were killed. In the end, the local people who need to use the road and are being forced to pay bribes to both sides, suffer the most. I ended up flying to Yangon and then took the bus to Mawlamyine.
In Mawlamyine I spent one week at Pa-auk Tawya Meditation Centre, aka Meditation Asskicking. Daily schedule at the monastery is rise at 3:30 am, eat two meals a day: one at 5:45 am and one at 10:10 am and then meditate for 8 hours. Sleeping on the ground, sitting on the ground, getting eaten alive by tropical bugs and sweating like crazy. I am feeling these 34 year old knees as my body felt trashed by the end of day two. For the first three nights I didn't have anywhere to attach my mosquito net, so I had to drape it over  my umbrella and sleep under the open umbrella. I said to my roommates, as I crawled under one night, I'm really starting to get too old for this. Although extremely tough, it was a rewarding experience both culturally and spiritually. It was beautiful to meditate with so many local women and to experience the generosity of the local people. My favourite part was the circle of "Dana" or generosity offered through daily meals. In Southeast Asia, monks and nuns collect alms from laypeople for their daily food. As meditators, we also have the opportunity to participate in the alms rounds. Everyday multiple villagers come to cook and serve the food prepared for the 700+ people who stay at the monastery. For our meals, we would silently line up with our alms bowls, behind the nuns, and collect the food offered in donation. It was magestic to stand silently behind two hundred nuns, under a jungle canopy, to recieve our meals. I am very grateful for the opportunity to learn at Pa-auk.
From Mawlamyine, I travelled to Hpa-an in Kaern state. The scenery is absolutely stunning with lush green rice patties, craggy peaks, flowing rivers, wooden boats, bicycles and intricately carved images in numerous caves. Stunning! I decided to see the sites by hiring a motorcycle taxi. My taxi driver's name was Hoe Lay and he was awesome. I saw the sites but he also showed me parts of Burmese life that I would not have experienced on my own including the rambling back lanes full of wooden homes, small waterfalls where teenagers go to makeout and swimming holes where one can sip on sticky rice wine and listen to Burmese rap. How Lay works at this job to practice English so he can go to work abroad, like so many young people who see the future anywhere but Burma. The people say that the government is changing enough to make it seem like there is change, but they will never give up power. It's interesting to see everyone with iPads, smartphones and access to the Internet, and wonder what this opening to the world means for the next generation. 
I am now in Yangon and am reminded how much I love the buzz of an urban centre. Exhausting but fun! And Yangon is an incredible place where even the taxi drivers are fair! Last night when I arrived late due to a broken down bus on the way, I was tired and hungry and got mad at my taxi driver. We both pouted for about 20 minutes, until he put on Pitbull videos and we sang along in Spanish together. We both said we were sorry, and he told me he'd never forget me. The people have been absolutely incredible! Kind, generous, honest, interested, open, genuine and ready for their country to change. I feel like a celebrity as everyone wants to take a photo, practice their English, talk politics and share their thoughts on Burma. It's beautiful. I feel very blessed to be here now.
I'm going to have a few more days in Yangon, and then decide what I'm doing ... Either west to Rakine state or North to Kachin state. I'll keep you posted. Hugs and love! xo