I'm in Burma! Wow! I can't believe it! Rather than sending group emails, I decided to continue my blog from when I was working on the Thai-Burma border, as this feels like an extension of that trip.
My initial plan was to cross the border at Mae Sot where I was stationed when I did my thesis research, but two days before I was to cross, the border closed due to fighting between Karen ethic armies and Burmese military. The closure was due to the new road that is to officially open at the end of the month and that will make travel between Thailand and Burma much faster and easier. The Karen armies have begun collecting illegal tax on the road. The military, who also collects illegally, fired at the Karen to tell them to stop, and the Karen fired back. Soldiers on both sides were killed. In the end, the local people who need to use the road and are being forced to pay bribes to both sides, suffer the most. I ended up flying to Yangon and then took the bus to Mawlamyine.
In Mawlamyine I spent one week at Pa-auk Tawya Meditation Centre, aka Meditation Asskicking. Daily schedule at the monastery is rise at 3:30 am, eat two meals a day: one at 5:45 am and one at 10:10 am and then meditate for 8 hours. Sleeping on the ground, sitting on the ground, getting eaten alive by tropical bugs and sweating like crazy. I am feeling these 34 year old knees as my body felt trashed by the end of day two. For the first three nights I didn't have anywhere to attach my mosquito net, so I had to drape it over my umbrella and sleep under the open umbrella. I said to my roommates, as I crawled under one night, I'm really starting to get too old for this. Although extremely tough, it was a rewarding experience both culturally and spiritually. It was beautiful to meditate with so many local women and to experience the generosity of the local people. My favourite part was the circle of "Dana" or generosity offered through daily meals. In Southeast Asia, monks and nuns collect alms from laypeople for their daily food. As meditators, we also have the opportunity to participate in the alms rounds. Everyday multiple villagers come to cook and serve the food prepared for the 700+ people who stay at the monastery. For our meals, we would silently line up with our alms bowls, behind the nuns, and collect the food offered in donation. It was magestic to stand silently behind two hundred nuns, under a jungle canopy, to recieve our meals. I am very grateful for the opportunity to learn at Pa-auk.
From Mawlamyine, I travelled to Hpa-an in Kaern state. The scenery is absolutely stunning with lush green rice patties, craggy peaks, flowing rivers, wooden boats, bicycles and intricately carved images in numerous caves. Stunning! I decided to see the sites by hiring a motorcycle taxi. My taxi driver's name was Hoe Lay and he was awesome. I saw the sites but he also showed me parts of Burmese life that I would not have experienced on my own including the rambling back lanes full of wooden homes, small waterfalls where teenagers go to makeout and swimming holes where one can sip on sticky rice wine and listen to Burmese rap. How Lay works at this job to practice English so he can go to work abroad, like so many young people who see the future anywhere but Burma. The people say that the government is changing enough to make it seem like there is change, but they will never give up power. It's interesting to see everyone with iPads, smartphones and access to the Internet, and wonder what this opening to the world means for the next generation.
I am now in Yangon and am reminded how much I love the buzz of an urban centre. Exhausting but fun! And Yangon is an incredible place where even the taxi drivers are fair! Last night when I arrived late due to a broken down bus on the way, I was tired and hungry and got mad at my taxi driver. We both pouted for about 20 minutes, until he put on Pitbull videos and we sang along in Spanish together. We both said we were sorry, and he told me he'd never forget me. The people have been absolutely incredible! Kind, generous, honest, interested, open, genuine and ready for their country to change. I feel like a celebrity as everyone wants to take a photo, practice their English, talk politics and share their thoughts on Burma. It's beautiful. I feel very blessed to be here now.
I'm going to have a few more days in Yangon, and then decide what I'm doing ... Either west to Rakine state or North to Kachin state. I'll keep you posted. Hugs and love! xo
My initial plan was to cross the border at Mae Sot where I was stationed when I did my thesis research, but two days before I was to cross, the border closed due to fighting between Karen ethic armies and Burmese military. The closure was due to the new road that is to officially open at the end of the month and that will make travel between Thailand and Burma much faster and easier. The Karen armies have begun collecting illegal tax on the road. The military, who also collects illegally, fired at the Karen to tell them to stop, and the Karen fired back. Soldiers on both sides were killed. In the end, the local people who need to use the road and are being forced to pay bribes to both sides, suffer the most. I ended up flying to Yangon and then took the bus to Mawlamyine.
In Mawlamyine I spent one week at Pa-auk Tawya Meditation Centre, aka Meditation Asskicking. Daily schedule at the monastery is rise at 3:30 am, eat two meals a day: one at 5:45 am and one at 10:10 am and then meditate for 8 hours. Sleeping on the ground, sitting on the ground, getting eaten alive by tropical bugs and sweating like crazy. I am feeling these 34 year old knees as my body felt trashed by the end of day two. For the first three nights I didn't have anywhere to attach my mosquito net, so I had to drape it over my umbrella and sleep under the open umbrella. I said to my roommates, as I crawled under one night, I'm really starting to get too old for this. Although extremely tough, it was a rewarding experience both culturally and spiritually. It was beautiful to meditate with so many local women and to experience the generosity of the local people. My favourite part was the circle of "Dana" or generosity offered through daily meals. In Southeast Asia, monks and nuns collect alms from laypeople for their daily food. As meditators, we also have the opportunity to participate in the alms rounds. Everyday multiple villagers come to cook and serve the food prepared for the 700+ people who stay at the monastery. For our meals, we would silently line up with our alms bowls, behind the nuns, and collect the food offered in donation. It was magestic to stand silently behind two hundred nuns, under a jungle canopy, to recieve our meals. I am very grateful for the opportunity to learn at Pa-auk.
From Mawlamyine, I travelled to Hpa-an in Kaern state. The scenery is absolutely stunning with lush green rice patties, craggy peaks, flowing rivers, wooden boats, bicycles and intricately carved images in numerous caves. Stunning! I decided to see the sites by hiring a motorcycle taxi. My taxi driver's name was Hoe Lay and he was awesome. I saw the sites but he also showed me parts of Burmese life that I would not have experienced on my own including the rambling back lanes full of wooden homes, small waterfalls where teenagers go to makeout and swimming holes where one can sip on sticky rice wine and listen to Burmese rap. How Lay works at this job to practice English so he can go to work abroad, like so many young people who see the future anywhere but Burma. The people say that the government is changing enough to make it seem like there is change, but they will never give up power. It's interesting to see everyone with iPads, smartphones and access to the Internet, and wonder what this opening to the world means for the next generation.
I am now in Yangon and am reminded how much I love the buzz of an urban centre. Exhausting but fun! And Yangon is an incredible place where even the taxi drivers are fair! Last night when I arrived late due to a broken down bus on the way, I was tired and hungry and got mad at my taxi driver. We both pouted for about 20 minutes, until he put on Pitbull videos and we sang along in Spanish together. We both said we were sorry, and he told me he'd never forget me. The people have been absolutely incredible! Kind, generous, honest, interested, open, genuine and ready for their country to change. I feel like a celebrity as everyone wants to take a photo, practice their English, talk politics and share their thoughts on Burma. It's beautiful. I feel very blessed to be here now.
I'm going to have a few more days in Yangon, and then decide what I'm doing ... Either west to Rakine state or North to Kachin state. I'll keep you posted. Hugs and love! xo
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